Rick Owens makes clothes for purely the concept, he could care less if it actually gets sold.
Such was the mood of Rick Owens's latest show, using the eccentric and daring theme of "Monastic Culture. in many of his clothes. The collection was dominated by outerwear, mainly coats of long length with incredible movement and force, possibly resembling that characteristic personality of a nun, forceful and rigid. Joan of arc's figure could be seen in some of the white lapel-less coats, who Owens was fascinated by during the creation of his collection. "There's something poignant about devoting oneself to a cause."
The things I loved most about this collection was the more architectural pieces, namely the black wristbands and the cotton sporty sleeveless shirts near the end. I also adored the architectural collars of some pieces, and especially loved the tailored waist of some of the clothes. The loose footwear that he created seemed to me sort of revolting in that it reminded me of a sort of sloppiness associated with mud or pond scum, especially with that swamp green color. I was also not a fan of the platform-flats that he dawned for men, it seemed as though he took them from his last fall-winter Women's collection.
My favorites from the collection-
Sartorialist of the South
Reviews of all the best (& worst) fashion shows for the Hommes Spring 2011 Season
Friday, December 3, 2010
Saturday, November 27, 2010
Top 5 Men's Accessories for Spring 2011
5. Paul Smith Jewelry
In the spirit of Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows, I only feel it fit to include something wizardy in this Top 5 list, especially given the new admiration I have for Paul Smith, who took a big risk with his latest collection. This season Mr. Smith seemed to send many witch vibes down the runway, including a very trendy set of necklaces in various geometric forms. As an undisputed contemporary of 60s punk, it was no surprise that Mr. Smith would go for his usual rocker aesthetic, yet, I was taken aback by the very strong message of superstition and androgyny that is completely alien to many of his customers. Although overall a great show, It's hard to know what a long time customer of Smith's will think of what he's done.
4. Versace Jewelry
The Versace Jewelry Donatella used in her latest collection was most definitely the highlight of the show. With its gaudiness and attitude, it was successful in Donatella's vision of the fearless man of the 80s, and the obsession she had with the men portrayed by the great Bruce Weber. She strayed from the idea of what is "traditional" in replacing the traditional shirt and tie with a buttoned-down collar and bold silver chains emblazoned with the label's "Medusa", a powerful new idea that should remind us that when it comes to style, there are no rules.
3. The John Varvatos Newsboy Cap
To tell you the truth, I was never a fan of hats until I saw what John Varvatos did this season. In revolutionizing the idea of the Newsboy Cap, (you know hats you would often see immigrants of the 1910s or 20s wear) he has made something once considered "unfashionable" into something desirable. As I saw the models walk down the runway, it seems to add that little bit of edge that for some reason suggests a sort of laid-back rocker, if that truly exists.
2. Prada's New Fanny pack
I had a real hard time trying to label Prada's new fanny pack as at the top of the list or somewhere in the middle. The way Miuccia's madness spills over into her collection never ceases to amaze me and this collection seemed to take her madness to a whole new level. Before laying eyes on this collection, I had very much despised the fanny pack, which is often associated with crocs-with-socks-wearing, eating-with-their-hands, nasty tourists or a mom whose kids number more than her fingers and toes combined. Coming with bold letters and colors, it seems the perfect place to keep your car keys or other desirables, while not having to worry about pickpockets (and of course being fashionable).
1. Lanvin's Socks & Footwear
Undoubtedly the best Men's Accessory of the season, Alber and Lucas really seemed to veer off into uncharted territory when it came to the cut and shape of the socks in the show, as well as the boldness of the blue, orange, and yellow in the footwear. They could very possibly revolutionize the cut of the socks, whose distinct shapes demanded attention when paired with beautiful sandals of all different colors. Their work was something I had never seen before, and most definitely a novelty in a season full of surprises. As this season comes to a close, I am only left wondering what these two artists will do for sportswear in the future.
In the spirit of Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows, I only feel it fit to include something wizardy in this Top 5 list, especially given the new admiration I have for Paul Smith, who took a big risk with his latest collection. This season Mr. Smith seemed to send many witch vibes down the runway, including a very trendy set of necklaces in various geometric forms. As an undisputed contemporary of 60s punk, it was no surprise that Mr. Smith would go for his usual rocker aesthetic, yet, I was taken aback by the very strong message of superstition and androgyny that is completely alien to many of his customers. Although overall a great show, It's hard to know what a long time customer of Smith's will think of what he's done.
4. Versace Jewelry
The Versace Jewelry Donatella used in her latest collection was most definitely the highlight of the show. With its gaudiness and attitude, it was successful in Donatella's vision of the fearless man of the 80s, and the obsession she had with the men portrayed by the great Bruce Weber. She strayed from the idea of what is "traditional" in replacing the traditional shirt and tie with a buttoned-down collar and bold silver chains emblazoned with the label's "Medusa", a powerful new idea that should remind us that when it comes to style, there are no rules.
To tell you the truth, I was never a fan of hats until I saw what John Varvatos did this season. In revolutionizing the idea of the Newsboy Cap, (you know hats you would often see immigrants of the 1910s or 20s wear) he has made something once considered "unfashionable" into something desirable. As I saw the models walk down the runway, it seems to add that little bit of edge that for some reason suggests a sort of laid-back rocker, if that truly exists.
2. Prada's New Fanny pack
I had a real hard time trying to label Prada's new fanny pack as at the top of the list or somewhere in the middle. The way Miuccia's madness spills over into her collection never ceases to amaze me and this collection seemed to take her madness to a whole new level. Before laying eyes on this collection, I had very much despised the fanny pack, which is often associated with crocs-with-socks-wearing, eating-with-their-hands, nasty tourists or a mom whose kids number more than her fingers and toes combined. Coming with bold letters and colors, it seems the perfect place to keep your car keys or other desirables, while not having to worry about pickpockets (and of course being fashionable).
1. Lanvin's Socks & Footwear
Undoubtedly the best Men's Accessory of the season, Alber and Lucas really seemed to veer off into uncharted territory when it came to the cut and shape of the socks in the show, as well as the boldness of the blue, orange, and yellow in the footwear. They could very possibly revolutionize the cut of the socks, whose distinct shapes demanded attention when paired with beautiful sandals of all different colors. Their work was something I had never seen before, and most definitely a novelty in a season full of surprises. As this season comes to a close, I am only left wondering what these two artists will do for sportswear in the future.
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
Versace Spring 2011
One thing I have always admired about Versace is the brand's refusal to conform to the present. The brand rather pushes ahead into the future, something that seems to create the bold and fearless man that seems to always walk their runway, as it did today.
As the first look walked onto the runway, a charcoal suit combined with a soft green mint dress shirt, the collar buttoned down and necklaces channeling previous Versus collections, it was apparent that Donatella took from a combination of the 80s and the 50s. "I thought at that time we were very glamorous, very sexy, very daring, without the fear to be individuals." Her mood board consisted of photos from the influential photographer Bruce Weber, whose work during the late 80s consisted of many bold and powerful themes. This carried on to the make up and hair of the show, which made the men look fresh yet edgy by combining blush and concealer as well as 50s volume with an 80s curve.
The things I particularly loved was the idea of the tighter fit, tighter belt, shorter sleeves, more compact shoes, everything one size less. This gave the men a slimmer look, which I really thinkwill hold well with her consumers. Some of the graphic prints really reminded me of the 90s Versace, calling back to memory some of Gianni's work, most especially the swimsuits at the end. I hated the leather peaces with the fringes on the chest and pants, most likely because it reminded me of the Jetts from Westside story, which, at least to me, is a bad thing. (Musical Gangs don't come off as too edgy in my opinion). This, however, was made up for with the sportswear, particularly the sunglasses and the sandles, which Versace always seems to do well.
Here are some of my favorites from the collection --
As the first look walked onto the runway, a charcoal suit combined with a soft green mint dress shirt, the collar buttoned down and necklaces channeling previous Versus collections, it was apparent that Donatella took from a combination of the 80s and the 50s. "I thought at that time we were very glamorous, very sexy, very daring, without the fear to be individuals." Her mood board consisted of photos from the influential photographer Bruce Weber, whose work during the late 80s consisted of many bold and powerful themes. This carried on to the make up and hair of the show, which made the men look fresh yet edgy by combining blush and concealer as well as 50s volume with an 80s curve.
The things I particularly loved was the idea of the tighter fit, tighter belt, shorter sleeves, more compact shoes, everything one size less. This gave the men a slimmer look, which I really thinkwill hold well with her consumers. Some of the graphic prints really reminded me of the 90s Versace, calling back to memory some of Gianni's work, most especially the swimsuits at the end. I hated the leather peaces with the fringes on the chest and pants, most likely because it reminded me of the Jetts from Westside story, which, at least to me, is a bad thing. (Musical Gangs don't come off as too edgy in my opinion). This, however, was made up for with the sportswear, particularly the sunglasses and the sandles, which Versace always seems to do well.
Here are some of my favorites from the collection --
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